MILAN – Milan is ready to party: the menswear shows next spring and winter will focus on nighttime tailoring with playful accents. Imagine sequins and sparkles, fun silhouettes that invite a shadow dance, and sexy skin looks with tailoring tricks that were once reserved for women’s wardrobes.
Some highlights from Saturday’s shows on the second day of Milan Fashion Week.
DOLCE & GABBANA BACK TO BLACK
If you just looked at the color, Dolce&Gabbana went back to basics: the entire collection for the following winter was mostly black monochrome, which was better for night games. Gray and white monochromes played a supporting role.
Although it looked easy, the look was far from simple. Designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana created a collection built around tailoring, keeping in mind the night’s syncopated club beat.
Long coats or spectacular capes will get you to the door of the club. Inside, men’s corsets, girdles and girdles cinch the waist, a silhouette that is mimicked in dramatic hourglass tailoring of coats and jackets with a curved waistline and broad shoulders. Straboscope picks up sparkles and sparkles on clothes, while sheer tops and knitwear show off the figure.
The designer duo’s front row guests included Machine Gun Kelly and Italian singer Blanco.
FLY WITH EMPORIO ARMANI
Giorgio Armani has been on the global fashion map for more than four decades. His latest collection for Emporio Armani was a literal map of his adopted Milan, with models walking the perimeter of a circular runway, creating a bird’s eye view map of the fashion capital’s historic center.
The collection was inspired by aviation, and there were traces of tailoring from the golden era of flight, when dandies like Charles Lindbergh made history by crossing the Atlantic alone.
A gray jumpsuit with a belt and a furry collar, an aviator cap and chunky boots set the tone. As soon as he lands, there are muted plaid suits with cropped trousers just above the boots – the invention of the season. Gear is stored in backpacks and sea bags.
Cozy knitwear paired with leather pants and a jacket, some with an antique finish, create an adventurous silhouette. But the true dandy steps out in colorful daywear, including handsome camel coats, deep-hued velvet jackets, and silk shirts with bright accents like magenta, purple, and mauve.
Leather belts and belts added an edge. Bags are strapped over the boots. Mirrored aviator glasses complete the look.
Armani, 88, good-humoredly picked up a bag that fell from a model as he greeted the crowd at the end of the show.
FENDI IS FLASHING SOME LEATHER
Next winter’s Fendi collection is bursting with leather in a way that was once reserved for women.
One-shoulder tops are knitted and buttoned with exposed skin for sexy drama. The jersey was very sheer, barely there. A little layering brought modesty back for the office, but could easily be undone for an evening transition.
The long coats included an asymmetric wrap cape, mock trouser fit with a wraparound one-sided skirt. The effect was cozy and enveloping, offering a cocoon as we ventured back into the world.
Fendi’s whimsy was on full display in the knitted beanies, one in the form of a cute cartoon wig with a whimsical twist or another with a fringed back. Capes and wide coats and scarves are similarly decorated with fringes. The bombers looked antique, worn. The color palate was the most understated shade of grey, oatmeal and burnt umber that set off my mauve and lavender undertones. Graphite beading attracted attention in evening looks.
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